Community, Music, Victory – A Six Nations day in Cardiff is like no other experience

Sporting Culture in Wales was a commodity unbeknown to me as an Englishman.

And having arrived to study during the pandemic, I never had the opportunity, in the first year of residence at least, to soak in the true atmosphere of anything in Cardiff in truth.

So when the turn of the year dawned, despite my barren distaste for what I formerly cussed as ‘egg-chasing’, the highlight of my winter’s schedule was the 12th February – when Scotland came to town.

The two sides headed into the crunch test with contrasting openers. Ireland demolished Wayne Pivac’s men 29-7, with the entirety of the Welsh structure put into question, and the Kiwi’s position scrutinised under serious threat.

Scotland on the other hand are the perennial underdogs, and their win over bitter rivals England had accelerated dreams of a first Six Nations triumph.

The Atmosphere

Everyone, including my university colleagues with little to zero interest in the sporting world, always spoke of the Rugby days.

The bustling streets, the face painting, the reality that you couldn’t enjoy a beverage without queuing for at least half an hour. It all seemed nonsensical.

Alas, the inner critique and curiosity got the better of me. I made a deliberate effort to experience the streets of Cardiff on Saturday, in my mind to prove that this romance of Rugby in this great nation was built on false foundation. I could not have been more wrong.

As soon as I took my first step onto St Mary’s Street, one of two mainstays in the city centre, I saw it. The sheer volume of people flocking like peckish seagulls. The surround sound of chatter, of laughter, and of Scottish and Welsh enjoying each others’ company – it immediately tilted a crooked smile from cheek to cheek.

I walked through the town, with children face painted, fans draped in Welsh flags and kilted men singing folk songs of old emanating through my peripherals, and I stopped, turned and listened.

“Too-ral-ay, oo-ral-ay addy,
We went up by train and by car.
When the juice of the barley was flowing,
We all saw the game in the bar.

“Oh! We loaded the bus up with flagons,
And left about twenty past seven.
We stopped fourteen times between Neath and Bridgend,
We were still in Glamorgan at eleven.
Singing…”

A song written by Max Boyce, the singers belted it out in a way that struck a chord with the ever-growing surrounding crowd. They attracted hundreds of walking donators, who contributed to a fundraiser for Tenovus Cancer Care.

We trundled out of the town centre, looking for a bar to watch it in that really displayed an echo of Welsh culture. Sadly they were all full to the brim, as my colleagues had warned, so we located a local Wetherspoons.

Donning a Welsh football shirt seemed like a semi-controversial idea on a day in which its brotherly game takes precedence. But Greg, an elderly gentleman who sat next to me, said this:

‘As long as it’s bloody Welsh, no one cares mate’.

The Match

The feeling in said Wetherspoons was a little flat. With the entirety of Welsh Rugby falling to its knees in the previous week, it would take a monumental effort to beat the best Scotland side of recent memory.

But history was on the hosts’ side. Scotland have not beaten Wales in Cardiff since 2002. This time they were favourites, a tag Gregor Townsend’s men found almost alien in these circumstances.

The visitors made a bright start, with number eight Matt Fagerson and hooker Stuart McInally prominent, but Wales counter-attacked from their own 22 through a thrilling Owen Watkin break, then Biggar kicked a fifth-minute penalty from 40 metres.

Biggar doubled Wales’ advantage three minutes later, booting a second penalty following more impressive Wales phase-play. Scotland were rocked back on their heels.

But they responded impressively, helped by a strong Duhan van der Merwe run, then Russell floated a pinpoint long pass to Graham, who finished in the corner for an outstanding try.

Another successful Russell penalty gave Wales further food for thought as rain fell steadily, only for Biggar to complete his penalty hat-trick and put his team back to two points adrift.

Russell followed suit through his own penalty treble, yet Scotland then experienced a testing few minutes as number eight Matt Fagerson went off injured then Wales hit them with a try.

Biggar opted to kick a penalty to the corner rather than for goal and Wales drove the resulting lineout to impressive effect, allowing Francis a simple touchdown that levelled things up at 14-14.

Townsend sent on a trio of front-row replacements just five minutes into the second period, and Russell’s fourth penalty put Scotland back in front with 30 minutes left.

Biggar and impressive full-back Liam Williams gave Wales injury scares, but they both continued after treatment and Cuthbert went close to scoring a try before another Biggar penalty levelled the game again.

Scotland suffered a second injury blow midway through the half when substitute prop Rory Sutherland departed, then Russell was sin-binned after Cuthbert was inches away from a corner touchdown.

Biggar then kicked a drop-goal before the visitors’ could settle, winning the match for Pivac’s men to reignite their Six Nations hopes.

The Message

Don’t underestimate the culture in Welsh sport. The independence, the love and the will to win matches anything else in the British Isles – and the pints are pretty good too!